History
The original listing of Cru Bourgeois was introduced in 1932 by the Bordeaux Chamber of Commerce and the Chamber of Agriculture in order to distinguish quality wines that had been excluded from the 1855 classification. The alliance included 444 estates and remained intact for more than sixty years. When it was revisited in 2003, however, only 247 of the 490 chateaux that applied were granted Cru Bourgeois status, thus igniting fierce opposition from the excluded estates. As a result of the controversy, the revised classification (which included the introduction of two additional tiers – “Superieurs” and the highest rank, “Exceptionnel”) was nullified in 2007, at which point all of the original 490 chateaux were temporarily reclassified as Cru Bourgeois.
After three years of deliberation, this week saw the official announcement of the new Cru Bourgeois selection. The listing includes over 200 members, with prices ranging from a a modest £7 per bottle to £25+. Despite the sometimes extreme price and quality differences between the wines, the new system does away with designations such as “Superieur” and “Exceptionnel”. Under the new regime, selection for each vintage takes place two years after the harvest, and the chateaux’s wines need to be retasted each year in order to qualify for Cru Bourgeois status. All chateaux are eligible to apply (Read Decanter’s article on the new alliance here).
Though there are certainly advantages to the simpler and more democratic system, a number of former Cru Bourgeois Exceptionnels have opted not to join the new listing and have instead formed their own group – Les Exceptionnels. The association includes Chasse Spleen, Ormes de Pez, Pez, Potensac, Poujeaux and Siran. Chateau Labegorce-Zede was not permitted to join Les Exceptionnels owing to a merger, whilst former Cru Bourgeois Exceptionnel members Phelan Segur and Haut Marbuzet elected not to form part of either of the new alliances.
The 2009 vintage
Success was by no means restricted to the Cru Classe in 2009. Judging from Parker’s scores, there will be ample candidates for the Cru Bourgeois 2009 selection, which will be made in September 2011. Dozens of wines received 90 points and above, including Bellevue – a perennial Parker favourite. The wine was awarded 16 points from Jancis Robinson and 92-94 points from Parker, with the latter suggesting that it “could turn out to be superior to their great 2000”. Of Les Exceptionnels, Poujeaux was one of the top scorers at 90-93 points, “a sleeper of the vintage”, whilst Chasse Spleen and Pez were both awarded 90-92 points. Ormes de Pez (RP 88-90) and Potensac (RP 89-91) also received favourable reviews, though Siran 2009 was not quite as successful at 87-88+.
Market Trends
With the end of the year (and all its festivities) drawing ever closer, both Les Exceptionnels and the Cru Bourgeois will be of particular interest to those on the lookout for drinking wines. Both groups include a number of excellent chateaux that offer immediate drinking pleasure. But where does the best value lie?
Based on the current prices of vintages 1999-2009, Pez is the most expensive of the Exceptionnels, whilst Potensac, Poujeaux and Ormes de Pez are the most affordable (the wines all bear similar Parker scores). By vintage, 2000 is the most intimidating, averaging £290 per case. The year that followed, however, though often overlooked, offers a host of quality wines that have already seen a number of years in bottle. Potensac 2001, for example, is available at £165 per 12x75cl –the equivalent of £14 per bottle. The vintage received 87 points from Robert Parker, who describes it as “an elegant, medium-bodied Medoc offering dried herb and berry fruit characteristics… Restaurants should be buying this one by the case for their patrons to enjoy.” And though Sociando Mallet does not form part of either group – having withdrawn from the classification back in 2003 – as a top "unclassed" Medoc its wines certainly deserve a mention. The 93-point 2001 vintage, as well as the 94-point 2003, are available at around £350 per case and boast the chateau’s highest Parker scores to date.
The 2004 and 2006 vintages provide younger alternatives to the 2001s, though they also offer good value for money. Poujeaux 2006 (RP 89) recently entered its drinking window and catches the eye at £145 per case – “good value” (RP). The 2004 is another clear winner at £160 per case and boasts 90 points from the Wine Spectator. And although it may be best to give the 2008s time to evovle in the cellar, many of the wines are trading at under £150 per case, despite their generous Parker scores.
The ten year mark is often when good Bordeaux hit their stride. As such, the top Cru Bourgeois from 1999 may represent some of the best value in Bordeaux. Ormes de Pez 1999 (RP 86) and Poujeaux 1999 (RP 86-87) are trading at around £200 each (per 12x75cl case), while Potensac 1999 (RP 86) is just £155 per case, or £13 per bottle.
The table below shows the current prices of some of the best value Exceptionnels and Cru Bourgeois, along with selected others. The wines are all drinking now and represent a good balance of price and quality.
All prices are for 12x75cl cases stored in bond. Scores from erobertparker.com.
